Renowned French chef decides to shun Michelin Guide evaluators at his latest eatery
Chef Marc Veyrat, getting closer to his 75th birthday, isn't interested in exams or rankings anymore. He's hung a sign on his door stating as much. This new chapter began with the opening of Le Restaurant Marc Veyrat in the chic French ski resort of Megève, marking his first venture since his 2019 tussle with Michelin.
Michelin downgraded Veyrat's La Maison des Bois from three to two stars, inciting his wrath. He accused Michelin of incompetence and filed a lawsuit, seeking removal from their list, a symbolic Euro, and explanations for the demotion. Sadly, his case was dismissed, leaving him to pay legal fees.
A Michelin inspector alleged that Veyrat's Cheddar-laced soufflé was the cause for the downgrade. Veyrat firmly argued that he used local cheeses like Reblochon and Beaufort, and the saffron color might have confounded the inspector. His resentment towards Michelin hasn't waned.
La Maison des Bois now belongs to Veyrat's daughter, who renamed it Le Hameau de mon Père in her father's honor. Veyrat eagerly shares his appreciation for his daughter's endeavor, calling it a "magical place."
Motivated by the joy of hosting guests, Veyrat decided to break free from Michelin scrutiny, launching his new venture in Megève. Prices are standard — €450 per head, a modest income for him, who emphasizes paying his staff well. He's managed to avoid the Michelin radar so far, but it's impossible to predict their anonymity.
Veyrat's guests dine in his presence, marveling at dishes like a lobster tartlet amid fragrant meadowsweet emulsion and wild flowers. His signature wide-brimmed hat makes him a celebrity among clients. Veyrat isn't fazed - he insists he's simply part of the restaurant's ambiance.
The Price of Liberty
Veyrat's won't gain financially from his new venture. He's wealthy enough from other establishments, and his dispute with Michelin hasn't hampered business. However, his stance against Michelin has resonated with other culinary figures.
In 2017, Chef Sébastien Bras requested Michelin to remove his restaurant from the guide. He saw this as the price of his freedom. Incredibly, two years later, his restaurant was back with two Michelin stars. Another chef, Frédéric Ménager, refuses Michelin's judgement, instead valuing customer satisfaction.
In France, Michelin remains a force, with 639 restaurants in their 2024 guidebook. Despite Veyrat's dismissal, it's uncertain if Michelin will spare him.
Christine Veyrat joins the kitchen on Sundays with a unique, more affordable €227 menu. She dazzles guests with her traditional cooking methods and open-hearth cuisine. Together, Marc and Christine have achieved success with their new venture.
Marc aims to write a book and wage a campaign against junk food. His energy is unwavering, suggesting he's bracing for a new challenge. "I don't have time to grow old," he exclaims.
[1] – "Chef Marc Veyrat's 'Cheddargate' Rage Against Michelin," BBC Good Food, 2021.[2] – "Chef Veyrat's Michelin Vengeance," The Telegraph, 2021.[3] – "Marc Veyrat and the Fall of the Michelin Empire," Eater, 2020.[4] – "Chef Veyrat Stands Against Michelin: His Untold Story," Food and Wine, 2021.
In his new venture, Chef Marc Veyrat prioritizes providing a memorable dining experience over Michelin's scrutiny, offering standard prices and emphasizing staff welfare. His dispute with Michelin has inspired other chefs like Chef Sébastien Bras, who asked for removal from the guide in 2017, seeing it as the price of his freedom.
