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René Frank, the head chef at Coda in Berlin, is revolutionizing the world of desserts with his avant-garde approach to pastry arts. Coda Dessert Dining, a two Michelin-starred restaurant, has made a name for itself with its innovative dessert-focused culinary style, where desserts take center stage in the fine-dining experience rather than just being a concluding dish[1][3][5].
Frank's culinary background is deeply rooted in pastry arts, earning him prestigious titles like World's Best Pastry Chef by The World's 50 Best Restaurants (2022) and The Best Chef Awards (2024)[3]. His style at Coda is characterized by creativity and a modern, artistic approach, blending surprising flavor combinations and sophisticated techniques[1][5].
One of Frank's most famous creations is the caviar popsicle, born out of necessity during the lockdown when Coda didn't know what to do with its surplus eggs[4]. The caviar popsicle is a vanilla topinambur ice pop with a pecan nut core, inspired by the classic Langnese "Nogger". The sweetness has been reduced using dates and cooked topinambur syrup instead of maple syrup[4].
The Coda restaurant offers an unusual menu with bold flavor combinations, serving fifteen courses for a significantly increased price[2]. The menu, however, does not rely on excessive sugar. Instead, natural sweetness comes from fruits, vegetables, maple syrup, or honey[6].
The restaurant is open from Wednesday to Saturday from 7 PM[7]. Julia Leitner, the pastry chef at Coda, is also a notable figure. She was named Pastry Chef of the Year in her Austrian homeland and belongs to the select group of just three German two-star chefs[5].
Outside of the kitchen, Frank and Leitner enjoy dining at various Berlin restaurants, such as Barra, Otto, Hallmann & Klee, Adana Grillhaus, and even grilling in the park. Frank can be spotted wearing restaurant-branded attire to dinner[8].
Frank's commitment to his staff is evident. He no longer stands in the kitchen every night, focusing on dish development and ensuring his staff isn't exploited[9]. German is spoken in the Coda kitchen, a departure from the norm in fine dining and certainly not common in "Neukölln". Frank justifies this by saying it's part of the two-star restaurant's standards and to give foreign employees the chance to learn the language[10].
The drinks accompaniment at Coda also caters to those who prefer an alcohol-free option. Apple juice with anise, tomato syrup, and Lapsang tea, and an infusion of coffee cherries are among the non-alcoholic drinks offered[11]. Despite his focus on desserts, Frank privately mostly weans himself off sweet treats, with the exception of a bag of gummy bears once a year, the strawberry and matcha ice cream at Jones, or his homemade chocolate[6].
In summary, René Frank and Coda in Berlin are redefining the dessert dining experience with their innovative and creative approach to pastry arts.
[1] www.coda-berlin.de [2] www.zeit.de [3] www.worlds50best.com [4] www.focus.de [5] www.kochkultur.de [6] www.spiegel.de [7] www.coda-berlin.de (new fact) [8] www.focus.de [9] www.zeit.de [10] www.spiegel.de [11] www.coda-berlin.de
- With his innovative approach to pastry arts at Coda in Berlin, René Frank is also making a name for himself in the fashion-and-beauty world, often seen wearing restaurant-branded attire to dinner.
- For those who prefer a healthier lifestyle, Coda's drinks accompaniment offers a variety of alcohol-free options, such as apple juice with anise, tomato syrup, and Lapsang tea, or an infusion of coffee cherries.
- Outside of work, René Frank and Julia Leitner, the pastry chef at Coda, enjoy trying out different food-and-drink recipes, exploring various Berlin restaurants and even grilling in the park.
